LP Tank and Battery
Filling and connecting LP tank:
Many of the appliances use propane gas to operate, and the gas is supplied through the use of a 20 pound propane tank. A double tank option is also available. The gas flow is measured by an adjustable regulator mounted just off the gas tank itself. A gas hose connects the regulator to the trailer.
You will need to occasionally refill your LP tank. To do this, first check to make sure all LP devices are off, like your refrigerator, furnace, and hot water heater. Then make sure your LP tank valve is turned off too. Remove the hose from the LP tank, and carefully set it aside. Make sure no dirt or debris gets in the hose fitting, as this can cause the regulator to malfunction. Next, remove the screws on the tank straps with a screwdriver and wrench. On a double tank set up, remove the center mount bracket and remove the tank needing to be filled. Have your tank filled at a gas station or other facility that sells LP gas.
To reconnect the tank, simply reverse the steps. Attach the tank straps with a screwdriver and wrench, making sure that the tanks is facing the correct direction to reattach the hose. Next attach the hose, getting it tight enough to prevent gas from leaking.
If you have a double tank option you can switch from one tank to the other with the black lever. The indicator in the center will show green when the tank has gas, and red when the tank is out of gas.
WARNING: You should read the owner's manual and the individual manuals for each of your gas powered appliances. If the information in these manuals is not followed exactly, a fire or explosion may result, causing property damage, personal injury or loss of life. Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of these or any other appliances.
The battery sits in the holder on the front of trailer. It uses wing nut attachments for easy removal, and on older trailers has an in-line fuse to prevent damage to the battery in the event of an electrical issue. On new trailers this fuse is located in the converter, and it is typically the fuse on the left.
When replacing the battery you should use an RV deep cell battery. The black wire goes to the positive battery terminal, and the white wire goes to the negative terminal. For best results you should disconnect the battery when you are not going to be using the camper for an extended period of time.
Connecting Water and Power
Filling with water:
To fill the fresh water tank, open the fresh water fill cap at the right rear of the trailer and use either a clean bucket or a hose to fill the tank. The tank has an overflow which will emit water underneath the trailer when the tank is completely filled.
Connecting city water: If your Scamp has a city water connection you will need to connect a hose to a clean water supply, and then to your Scamp. Use a clean hose for this connection, and you may want to drain the hose out after each use to keep the taste and smell of the water from getting stale.
Water systems can vary greatly in the Scamp trailer depending upon which options are installed. Every trailer has a 12 gallon fresh water tank located underneath the right, or passenger side rear seat. The black water tank is located under the toilet and holds nine gallons. Grey water tanks are located under the rear dinette or sleeping area, and hold 26 gallons. Both black and grey water tanks have venting for air displacement and odor.
When waste water holding tanks are used they must be periodically emptied. You should empty the waste water at approved facility. Many campgrounds have services to accept waste water. A 10 foot long 3 inch sewer hose is supplied in the hose carrier on the front of the trailer to facilitate this operation. Remove the sewer hose by unscrewing the cap on either end. Both black and grey water tanks have a termination fitting. The grey water tank should always be emptied before traveling.
First remove the cap from the tank you want to empty, and attach the 3 inch hose to the fitting. Place the other end of the hose in the waste receptacle. Pull the T handle to open the valve, and the tank will drain. When complete, push the T handle to fully close the valve, remove the hose, and replace the cap. Never travel without the caps in place. You may want to regularly rinse the drain hose to eliminate odors and keep it cleaner to handle.
Connecting 120 volt power:
In order to use any of the 120 volt appliances or receptacles, the 30 amp power cord must also be plugged in to a 120 volt power source. Most campgrounds have both 30 and 15 amp power supply sources. When possible always use the 30 amp supply. If there is only a 15 amp power supply source use the adapter supplied with the trailer to connect the cord to 120 volt power.
Setting up and taking down awning:
To set up the awning you will need the awning wand, which is usually stored in the closet. Take the wand and insert it into either center hole, and push away from center to compress the spring. This will release the leg from the slot, and you can swing the leg down. Tighten the black knob at the desired height, and repeat this process with the other leg. Once both legs are down, pull the loop strap in the center of the awning outward. There is a hook on the end of the awning wand if it is hard for you to reach the strap. The entire fabric of the awning should pull out to the full seven feet of length. At this point the middle rafters will lock in place. Move the legs to a vertical position and re-adjust for height. Tighten the rafter lock knobs to secure them in place.
To close the awning, loosen the rafter lock knobs, and set the legs closer to trailer. Pull the strap outward, releasing pressure on rafter locks. Push the rafter locks up to release the rafters, and let the awning roll up slowly. Keep the canvas even on both sides until the canvas is rolled completely into the case. The legs often have to be lifted slightly on each end to allow the awning to completely retract. Use the wand to re-lock the awning leg in to the slot in the center of the awning case. Re-tighten the knob on the leg to keep the leg secure.
Awnings should not be used in windy conditions. If there is a light or moderate wind the awning should be tied down with the stakes provided. The warranty on the awning does not cover damage caused by wind or weather, regardless of the situation.
There are several items that could cause a leak - fittings, water lines, appliances and pumps, toilets and showers, and windows. For information on leaks or electrical problems, please see the section "Troubleshooting and Repair" in the Owner's Manual. Exterior Shell
You can use any good boat wax on your Scamp trailer. Waxing will help prevent aging of the Gelcoat finish. You can wash your Scamp in a wand style car wash, being careful not to apply too much water directly around the windows, or into the appliance vents.
Over time small stress cracks may appear in the Gelcoat finish, but these do not cause structural damage. They are a result of stress on the body usually occurring after some years of use.
Tires and Bearings:
The trailer frame consists of two main beams made out of 3 inch x 1 1/2 inch tubing, one on each side. Either of these can be used to jack up the trailer. The jack should be placed close to the axle or toward the rear of the trailer, so that the whole weight of the trailer is not on one point. The rear bumper jacks are not intended to be used as a jack for changing tires. A scissor jack, hydraulic jack, or floor jack should be used. A jack is not supplied with the trailer.
Next, remove the wheel using a 3/4 inch wrench. Often the lugs will need to be loosened slightly before the trailer is jacked up. Remove the spare tire, again using the 3/4 inch wrench, and mount the spare on the trailer. The wheel should be tightened by using an alternate pattern on the lug nuts. Lower the trailer to the ground. Tighten the lugs and again with the wheel on the ground. The lugs should be rechecked and re-tightened after 200 miles of travel.
Lug Nuts and Wheel bearings:
When your trailer is new you should check the axle after the first 200 miles. Check the lug nuts making sure they are not loose and check the hub for excessive heat. New trailers with EZ lube hubs will run hot the first couple hundred miles until the bearings seat. After this point the bearings should be checked once a year or every 5000 miles. If the trailer is equipped with brakes examine them at the same time as the bearings. When installing grease in the EZ lube zert use one or two pumps. Do not over fill. This will break the grease seal, and the extra grease can get on the brake shoes, causing them to malfunction.
To change the marker lights, remove the cover with a straight blade screwdriver. Pull on the bulb while pressing gently to release the small pins on the base of the lamp. Replace with the same model lamp. Snap the base in, and make sure the pins on the base lock into the proper spot on the metal tabs. On occasion the metal tab that touches the base of the lamp will get loose and fail to make proper contact. If this happen, remove the bulb, gently bend the tab in, and replace the bulb. Place the cover over the fixture and snap it in place.
To change lamps in the rear fixture, remove the cover with a straight blade screwdriver. Push gently on the bulb and rotate to remove. Replace with the same model bulb. Push the bulb in the socket, and rotate to seat the pins on the base. Replace the cover and snap it in place.
Diagram of car connector wiring:
The towing vehicle needs the proper electrical connector to operate the trailer lights, interior 12 volt lights, and trailer brakes. The 7-prong jack is now used on all Scamp trailers.
This wire color legend indicates the wire colors used for the Scamp wiring harness.
Green - Tail Lights and Marker Lights
Red - Left Turn and Brake Light
Brown - Right Turn and Brake Light
Black - Battery Charge Line
White - Ground
Yellow - Backup Lights
Blue - Electric Brakes